With a population of less than 700, the arrival of a cruise ship must be challenging some days for the residents of Olden in west Norway. However their arrival does bring income to this tiny village on the southern shore of Norway’s sixth longest fjord – Nordfjorden – as they have a few shops as well as multiple tours. I was fortunate enough to visit here in August on the QM2; a beautiful detour on our return journey to New York.

The weather wasn’t looking brilliant on arrival, and the forecast wasn’t looking great either. So I disembarked early to talk to one of the local tour guides about the Loen Skylift with whom I had booked a trip directly. The clouds were swirling around so was it better to go early as this was the best it was going to get or try later when the clouds may have lifted. They recommended trying later; so it was going to be a walk first thing for me. First though I wanted a photograph of the ship in port.

Queen Mary 2, August 2025

From here I decided to walk through the village and head up river.

It wasn’t long before I was on the edge of the village, and pondering what to do next. I spotted a trail, and on checking a map realised I could walk to a waterfall. That sounded an excellent plan for the morning, and the arrival of a dipper a few moments later felt like a sign from Robert. This was the definitely the way to go.

As happy as I was feeling that I had a plan for my morning, I was also feeling nervous. I was on my own and not only were the steps up on to the wooden bridge slippery and awkward, but there were gaps on the bridge – would my basophobia kick in or worse would I slip and end up in the river. I decided the day was too short to let it slide away doing nothing and after all if I did fall in, the river flowed out by the ship so I would be rescued! Plus Robert had sent the dipper. So I kept going . . . . . .

I didn’t take any photographs for the next twenty five minutes as the path became even more challenging; squelchy deep mud and slippery stones right on a sloping riverbank. How on earth I kept the basophobia at bay I do not know. It was both hilarious and terrifying at the same time. Eventually the muddy section gave way to firmer ground, and I was delighted to see more wooden walkways ahead, and was that also a hint of a waterfall in the distance.

I had made it, and as I drew closer I spotted some passengers from the ship had made it too. They however were all getting off one of the tour buses. They had definitely missed out as the Laukifossen Waterfall, as with many waterfalls particularly small ones like this one, is best seen from below, and not from above. They had also not experienced the highs and lows of the walk here, nor the even more hilarious walk back on the other side of the river when I not only mislaid the footpath for a bit but I also slipped and slid away!

Fortunately I didn’t hurt myself (much) nor did I end up in the river, but my camera, my bag and my trousers did take away some Norwegian mud. There was no time to think about it though as I wanted to get back to the port to reunite with the local guides and catch my transport to the sky lift before the weather got any worse.

33 thoughts

  1. Pingback: From fjord to sky in five – The life of B

  2. Such beautiful scenery. The wooden bridge looks quite the adventure, especially with the river below looking so lively!

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      1. But it seems like you did. So it just depends on the individual really. Maybe for me I would enjoy it but with the state of my knees, I won’t dare.

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  4. What an adventure! There’s nothing like a hike into the unknown, so long as it turns out OK. I think you’ll remember your waterfall visit much longer than those who took the bus.

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  5. Oh phew, I’m glad you made it back relatively unscathed. I was feeling a bit anxious for you at times. But what a beautiful view you had as you walked. When we go on a cruise I do a lot of research beforehand to find out what we can do and see independently at each stop and most often we do that and have a great day. But sometimes, if we feel we just can’t see what we want on our own, we do book a tour. The best example is our next trip, which includes an Adriatic Sea cruise. There’s a stop in Naples for Pompeii and we booked a tour for that. Much easier than getting ourselves there, standing in a queue to enter and getting back again in time.

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    1. I did no research at all! Partly because I had so much going on leading up to the trip, but mostly because I sort of just saw the whole thing as a journey back to NYC that I forgot it was a mini holiday too.

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  8. Wonderful scenery and I really enjoyed your description of the hazards you encountered on your walk and how overcame your basophobia and were able to find fun and pleasure in your beautiful surroundings. I guess Robert was looking out for you that day!

    I have to say though that I’m always a bit sceptical about how much money small communities make from cruise ships as it seems to me that most passengers spend relatively little on shore and although they may take tours I’m sure the cruise company take a sizeable share of the profits. Best to do as you did and book directly with local operators 🙂

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  10. Love Brian’s comment. The Norwegian villages are so pretty, but that bridge looks precarious. A shame about the weather. I hope it improved. The hotel I worked in used to entertain Cruise ship tours. Usually Americans.

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  13. Brian expresses it so well! As to the cruise ships. Someone I know went on a cruise to the Norwegian fjords, and said what was so good about it was that she didn’t have to spend anything at the places where they disembarked to look round… So glad you made this fabulous detour, with Robert’s guiding dipper to see you along.

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  14. It does look a bit precarious, but once you’ve started there’s sometimes nothing to do but keep going. Good thing Robert was on your shoulder. The scenery is beautiful, isn’t it? Sending hugs xx

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