The day after visiting Åndalsnes we visited Ålesund, which with a quick glance at a map you might think is further north. However it is just the tiniest bit south; a stunning town filled with Jugendstil.

As with many Norwegian fishing towns Ålesund has experienced devastating fires. Its worst fire occurred in January 1904 when the whole town was destroyed; remarkably there was only one fatality when an older woman returned to her home in a misguided attempt to retrieve a possession. The town, mainly thanks to the support and assistance of Kaiser Wilhelm II, was rebuilt within three years in a much improved and beautiful style known as Jugendstil or Art Nouveau. Wilhelm II, the last German Emperor and King of Prussia, had been a frequent visitor to the area in the late 19th century as even then the surrounding fjords were popular with tourists.

Ålesund – pronounced Oh’-le-sen – is regarded as one of Europe’s prettiest ports. The city is spread over seven islands as converging fjords meet mountains, and apparently the islands are all connected by tunnels.

One of the highlights for visitors to the town, apart from the harbour, the stunning and colourful buildings, friendly locals and coastal gastronomy is the Aksla viewpoint. From below it looks incredibly daunting and steep, but for those of us used to hills and steep steps it was a breeze. I had climbed the 418 steps and was up at the top of Mount Aksla before I knew it.

You will have noticed in the slideshow above and gallery below how varied the skies were in each direction, and they were also changing throughout the day. Amazingly, given I saw two rainbows at different times, I only experienced a brief and very light rain shower. In fact looking back through the photographs I am surprised just how black the sky is in some of them.

We didn’t really grasp how devastating the 1904 fire was until we stumbled across the miracle house on our way down from the Aksla viewpoint. My eye caught the word ‘museum’ and ‘free’, and it also looked quite small. So to me irresistible! I managed to convince my brother and my sister-in-law to follow me in.

To my delight there was an English tour just starting and they welcomed us to join them. So we did, and within minutes found ourselves sitting in a circle in a top floor bedroom whilst an American told us the tale. It was a rather surreal experience. Anders Nord, who lived in the house with his wife at the time, was visited by an Angel the day before. The Angel promised that as long as he didn’t leave the house the next day his home was going to be spared. In the midst of the fire the next day, even when the neighbouring properties were burning, he refused to leave; his wife and other occupants however left fearing for their lives. When they returned their street and neighbouring ones was smouldering and in ashes; with the exception of their house which was unscathed. A miracle?

After the fire of 1904

By the time we left the museum it was time to head back to the ship and prepare for the evening sailing. We weren’t the only ones needing to prepare; the harbour staff needed to unhook us!

31 thoughts

  2. A beautiful spot. I love places where the houses and water are so closely connected. The museum was a good find and I love those last two photos, giving a sense of scale to the ship you’re on.

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  10. It is so very Norwegian, maybe unique for cities to be spread across many islands and interlinking fjords with mountain backdrops add thebwaterside colurful buildings just add tonthe magic. Enjoy each destination.

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