Growing up it was something of a tradition to hike on Boxing Day, but we never got out before breakfast. It wasn’t a tradition Robert and I kept, as we tended to go for Christmas Day strolls especially when in Portugal. Again we never got out before breakfast! However when I solo travel, walks before breakfast are something I quite often do. I thought I’d share one I did in October.

Consider it my virtual Boxing Day walk. I will probably be out walking today but it won’t be quite as fabulous as this easy (ish) hike 6225 ft above sea level on the shores of Da ow a ga in North California.

Not long after sunrise

I had gone out early as I wanted to enjoy the tranquillity of Emerald Bay on Lake Tahoe before the hordes arrived. I am not joking about hordes, even out of season this is one of the most photographed spots in the United States. I arrived just before 7:30am, less than 20 minutes after sunrise, and it was chilly. I knew it wouldn’t be long though before I warmed up.

The hike begins with a 400ft drop over one mile from the car park to the bay, and you really notice the steepness at this altitude. It is why many don’t attempt it, and prefer to enjoy the beautiful views (above) from the car park. However if your knees and lungs are up for it, it is well worth the descent and return climb; Emerald Bay is even more beautiful from its shore.

From the end of the pier

I have been fortunate in that I have visited Emerald Bay multiple times over the past 45 years, either walking in along the northern shore from Bliss State Park or the steep up and down from the car park. However for some reason I had never hiked on the southern shore, but this was all to change in October.

First though a few photographs from my hike down from the car park to the shoreline. Isn’t it stunning. Click on them for a close look.

Here are a few more of the bay from the shore. If you look carefully in the third photograph you will catch a glimpse of Vikingsholm; an extraordinary summer home built in the late 1920s. This is another reason why so many people visit this spot. I will tell you more about it in a moment.

It was six miles of well defined paths and small climbs/descents; perfect for a solo hiker wanting a pre-breakfast adventure. However it did occur to me that I might bump into a bear, I was the first human that morning down on the shoreline, so I made sure I made a bit of noise for the first half hour or so!

The views of the bay and Fannette Island were beautiful from this side, and made me wonder again why this was the first time I was exploring it. I think what added to its charm for me was the tranquillity. It felt as though I was the only one here.

Eventually I found myself on the edge of the camping site on the south side, and took advantage of a bench to sit down, catch my breath and to re-hydrate. I pondered about whether or not to keep going to the point at the entrance to the bay from the lake, but I had promised my cousin I would be back in time to go out for breakfast. It was only another 20 ish minutes to the point but I had already been hiking for nearly an hour. The breakfast promise and the clock made up my mind, it was time to return the way I had come. It wasn’t long before I could see Vikingsholm in the distance, and therefore wasn’t long before I was climbing back up to the car park. I didn’t take many photographs on my return as by now the ‘hordes’ were beginning to arrive.

Not much different to when it was built

Whilst I am hiking past all the tourists, let me tell you about Vikingsholm.

This 38 roomed mansion was commissioned by a Mrs Lora Josephine Knight and designed by her nephew Lennart Palme, a Swedish Architect. Emerald Bay reminded Mrs Knight of the fjords, and after seeing her nephew’s Nordic home in Rye, New York she decided she wanted a Scandinavian inspired house at Tahoe. She and her nephew visited Norway, Sweden, Denmark and Finland for additional inspiration. Much of what they saw, from castles to churches to residential homes, he reproduced at Vikingsholm with the assistance of 200 highly skilled workmen. There was a separate home for the year round caretaker and even a tea house on Fannette Island. The latter is the only island on Lake Tahoe. Mrs Knight filled her home with Scandinavian style furniture and textiles, and she enjoyed 15 summers here with family and friends.

By the way they didn’t have to hike that 400ft drop when they arrived or departed. Mrs Knight and her guests either arrived by paddlesteamer from Tahoe City or were able to drive down from the highway. This was a luxury summer home. I enjoyed the workout though at the start and finish, and I hope you have enjoyed my virtual Boxing Day hike.

44 thoughts

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  4. Thank you for taking me down to the shore of Emerald Bay, as that was a hike too far for me! We did the much shorter walk to the (dried up) Eagle Falls instead. It must have been lovely to have it all to yourself too. It looks beautiful 🙂

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    1. it is stunning down there – next time you’ll have to visit in season when they provide transport down for those that need it or you could hop on a paddlesteamer 🙂

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  5. This was quite the hike: but one with so many sights to store away in your memory. Surrounded by both water and mountains, you were in quite my favourite walking territory, so I’m very glad you shared it with us.

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  7. Awesome hike Becky and so many fabulous views. I too like to get out and about in the early before the hordes get active. It’s such a calm and beautiful time of day.

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  9. Becky, what a great hike. These photos are gorgeous. They brought back some wonderful memories from our visits to Lake Tahoe. I’ve never done that hike, but you planted a seed in mind to try it some day.

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    1. Thank you so much, and yes if you do return do explore that side as it continues on opening up even more walks further south. I’ll definitely be doing a longer one next time.

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    1. it was a superb breakfast afterwards, went to our favourite diner!

      and yes I have heard that most of the country is having a mild but murky Christmas. Here in Edinburgh we’ve been fortunate with blue skies most of it.

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  15. What a beautiful walk, it does look very tranquil (without the hordes) and the views from that summerhouse are very reminiscent of Norway. Is the house still in use?

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    1. I was so lucky that morning, all so still so perfect reflections. And it does feel like a sea, certainly cold enough to be the sea!

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    1. well I am glad I didn’t see one when I was walking, but my friend who visited me had seen one crossing the road the previous day!

      It is a spectacular area, and the camera loved it 🙂

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  19. I would usually be out for a walk on Boxing Day and usually on New Year’s Day too. Sitting on the airport bus at the moment, homeward bound. This looks like a beautiful spot, Becky- definitely a good place to have a cousin close by xx

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